The Lanesborough Grill

Neither quite situated in Knightsbridge, nor Mayfair nor Park Lane, the Lanesborough is a building that defines and almost defies the periphery of each. As Hyde Park Corner’s most bold visual, it’s one of London’s most geographically unique and noticeable hotels. Yet the Lanesborough is not a hotel you stumble across.

The Lanesborough is a hotel you visit deliberately. Very deliberately. Some of its visitors are doctors and nurses who used to work there when it was one of London’s largest hospitals. St Georges closed in 1980 so for them, the visit is very much a trip down memory lane. They may be too young to have worked on the third floor with the pioneering Florence Nightingale but they do remember the mess hall which has been transformed into the Lanesborough Grill and recently undergone its own renovation.

We sit in a corner on a turquoise sofa for two, rendered thus by its pointillistic blue and white texture. We look out over the beautiful and large space which achieves the often unachievable; grandiosity with intimacy. Three spectacular chandeliers drip sparkling crystals under an arched skylight, the exterior of which is surrounded snugly by towering hotel bedrooms.

The dark, polished tables are stretched at a luxurious distance from each other; no penny-pinching here to fit more diners in for a quick turnover and quick buck. The tables stand on a more traditional carpet which is challenged but complimented by a joyful Roman relief which dances around the grill’s entirety. 21-year-old British-Indian artist, Lucas Console-Verma’s large oil paintings add contemporary dashes of colour and energy throughout with thick brushstrokes and loose re-imaginings of The Old Masters.  

We kick off proceedings with the delightful Mercier champagne and are impressed, even, with the mini loaf of bread that accompanies it. Served warm and sliced, it’s surprisingly light and fluffy but retains an impressive crust. It has a hint of caramelised onion and stands on a bed of seeds and salted nuts. It’s a curious commingling of styles which hint at both Yorkshire pudding and even focaccia; there’s not a crumb left by the time our starters arrive.

The Roast Orkney scallop is chunky and succulent and served with disparate ingredients but which combine to form an impressive whole. Chunks of potato gnocchi mix with cuts of cordycep and girolle mushrooms all of which are presented in a delicate Champagne foam. If this dish is heady, then the Dorset crab ‘macaroni’ is, perhaps, outstanding.

It’s a visually anaemic serving with pastel green strands of celeriac to provide subtle colouring. My initial question was where’s the crab? Where’s the macaroni!? But this is no comfort food, no ordinary macaroni. The strands of crab sit under the celeriac under which sits a chunk of rigatoni pasta hidden by a small moat of chicken velouté. The celeriac’s bitterness offsets the crab’s sweetness for a dish which is both refreshing, light and full of surprises. 

Created to celebrate the first Duke of Wellington’s victory at the Battle of Waterloo in June 1815, the Beef Wellington is a classic British dish which has all but disappeared from the London dining scene. It’s slow-cooked for three to four hours with various elements of flash heating and resting. It’s a must-order and is prepared for two. As well as the obvious sirloin beef and pastry glazed in a pale ale honey, a pork, mushroom and tarragon stuffing fills the gap between the aforementioned. For pure showmanship, our waiter, John, slices the joint into four at the table.

The Wellington is nothing short of sensational. It’s a true melt in the mouth experience with perfectly pink beef and is served with a wealth of different flavours which include truffle-flavoured mash, meaty hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and a large slice of radish. In addition, we order hash brown potatoes which are golden and crazily crunchy and tenderstem broccoli which is topped with toasted seeds and grains. It’s all washed down with leathery, oaky notes of Marqués de Murrieta rioja which must, surely, symbolise the official start of Autumn. 

Executive Chef Shay Cooper earnt a Michelin star at Richmond’s Bingham  Hotel and also at the Goring before heading to the Lanesborough. His menu doesn’t just change on a seasonal basis but sometimes on a weekly basis, championing and experimenting with new twists on old classics. Our waiter, John, talks highly of the collaboration and harmony between the kitchen and the rest of the restaurant staff where feedback is encouraged and knowledge is shared.

Certainly, John seems to love his job and has a great admiration for Shay and his creativity. John’s own knowledge is plentiful and on the few occasions we ask something he can’t answer, he enthusiastically whips off to the kitchen to find out. This kind of dedication provides the Grill with its unusual charm; impossibly high standards and sumptuous surroundings offset by an understated intimacy, a home living room casualness and bonhomie.

For dessert we stick with the classics, which, of course, continue to surprise and please. The English strawberry trifle is light, flavoursome and served with a scoop of refreshing if not zinging rosé Champagne. As if this wasn’t enough, a strawberry finger consisting of sliced strawberries and delightfully crunchy caramelised pastry accompanies. John ‘bakes’ the Baked Alaska at the table. He pours Kirsh cherry jubilee over the meringue and then sets fire to it to produce a luminous blue flame and a crispy top which covers the Jacquand sponge vanilla ice cream. 

The Lanesborough Grill mixes theatre with skill, and refinement with authenticity for an altogether unpretentious but delectable feast of an evening and included in our guide to the best hotels in London, read our full hotel review here.