The Lister Arms Review

True relaxation – one could argue – can only really be fully appreciated when contrasted against true stress. And there is no better example of the latter than a drive in thrashing down rain and gale-force winds winding across the Yorkshire Dales through a storm. We were heading to the Lister Arms (that part we were looking forward to) but our stay coincided with one of the UK’s infamous winter storms.

Rain lashed against the car, winds howled, and thick mist clung to the moors like a shroud. Google Maps, oblivious to the tempest, directed us along the most blustery, winding route. At one point, we slowed to near-zero visibility and were greeted by the sight of a cow staring at us through the gloom, seemingly as bewildered by the weather as we were. Navigating past it felt like a small triumph, and by the time we reached The Lister Arms, the sense of relief was palpable.

As we stepped into the warmth of the inn, we were immediately enveloped by its inviting atmosphere. 

Nestled in this tranquil and picturesque village of Malham in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales, The Listers Arms is a Grade II-listed 17th-century coaching inn, steeped in history and charm. Named after local landowner Thomas Lister, the inn’s rich heritage is matched by its inviting atmosphere, roaring log fires, and warm hospitality.

Acquired and thoughtfully refurbished by hospitality firm Daniel Thwaites in 2007, The coach house seamlessly blends historic character with modern comfort. 

So on our arrival, frazzled and slightly bewildered, Jeanette greeted us with genuine kindness and attentiveness. She quickly assessed our situation, suggesting that we settle in with food and drinks before heading to the barn where our room was. It was sage advice.

The pub itself exuded rustic charm, with its low wooden beams, roaring fire, and the kind of ambience that seems to wrap around you like a cosy blanket. We chose the fish platter that was nothing short of divine: Atlantic prawns brandy Marie Rose, tempura king prawns, smoked salmon, squid rings, all arranged perfectly – it was incredible. Paired with a couple of pints and a pot of superbly thrice-cooked chips, it set the tone for the relaxation that was to come.

Our room was located in The Barn, a beautifully converted space that retained its authentic character while offering modern comforts. The ground floor of the barn with its sort of atrium, was a communal area, complete with comfy sofas, large tables, a well-stocked fridge – ideal for groups or families. On the mezzanine, our room was inviting, warm and comfortable. The super king-sized bed was so spacious, promising a restful night, and the bathroom, stocked with luxurious White Company products, added a touch of indulgence. It was clear that every detail had been thoughtfully considered, from the quality of the furnishings to the availability of hot chocolate, coffee, biscuits and milk in the atrium for late-night cravings.

The first night’s sleep was deeply restorative, and we awoke to the sound of some rain still pattering against the windows. Most of the renowned Dales walks appeared off-limits, such as the lengthier journey to the ravine of Gordale Scar or Malham Cove’s sheer limestone cliff and amphitheatre. Nevertheless, we were determined to make the best of our beautiful location. After a hearty breakfast – eggs Benedict with a velvety hollandaise sauce that was nothing short of perfect and a full English that was fuller than many we’ve experienced (including a wonderful Lister-special sticky granola beforehand) we donned our waterproofs and set out for Janet’s Foss, a local waterfall steeped in folklore. This was perhaps 4 miles in total and felt more doable in the conditions.

Janet’s Foss is named after a fairy queen said to dwell in a nearby cave and derives its name from the Old Norse word for “force”. Through the beautiful rolling hill countryside, we arrived with the water roaring loudly, fed by the heavy rains, and the mist starting to clear, it did feel quite magical. The circular route we took, with fields and countryside one way, a more accessible road on the return – was just the right balance of challenge and enjoyment.  We even managed to stop for a quick pint at a local pub on our way back, a small reward for braving the elements.

Back at The Lister Arms, the comfort of our room beckoned. We spent the afternoon unwinding, reading, and soaking in the tranquillity. By the time dinner rolled around, we were ready to indulge again. The evening meal didn’t let us down. I started with mussels, plump and tender, bathed in a rich garlic and white wine sauce that begged to be soaked up with crusty bread. My partner’s pigeon starter was equally delightful with a rich, gamey flavour.

For mains, I opted for a classic steak, cooked to perfection and accompanied by thick, triple-cooked chips, a juicy mushroom, and a grilled tomato. My partner’s beef bourguignon was a masterpiece of slow-cooked, melt-in-the-mouth tenderness, rich with wine and earthy vegetables. We capped the experience off with a Baileys cheesecake dessert for my better half and an apple crumble for myself.

The next morning, as we reluctantly prepared to leave, after again the heartiest of breakfasts, we reflected on what made The Lister Arms so special. It wasn’t just the food or the comfortable room, though both were outstanding. It was the people – the warmth and friendliness of the staff who went out of their way to make us feel welcome. The Lister Arms reconnects with the simpler pleasures of life. Whether it’s the first sip of a perfectly poured pint, the feel of a cosy blanket as you settle in for the night, or the quiet satisfaction of a well-earned meal, every moment is special.

As we drove away, the storm had abated and all of life’s challenges and troubles seemed to have slipped away.

The Lister Arms is included in our guide to the best hotels in Yorkshire